We all love a bargain! But what is the real cost of the clothes we wear? The drop in prices of clothing has allowed us to buy more and more clothes - in general our closets hold 5 times what our grandparents had.[1] But what is the cost of that new top or skirt? Today’s “fast fashion” with its constantly changing designs, styles, colours and materials has become the enticing model for the fashion industry - allowing it to ramp up profits.
We now produce 400% more clothes than only 20 years ago. Clothing is cheap and disposable. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, less than 1% of clothing is recycled into new garments.[2] They estimate that $500 billion (USD) is lost in disposing of clothing that is hardly worn, not donated or recycled and dumped in landfills. It is a linear system that is mining the planet and our souls.
In reality, the only way we can have cheap, disposable clothes, is by lowering production costs. These currently “expendable costs” include our own health from toxic fabrics, plundering our earth, and risking garment worker’s lives. Last year the UN launched a drive to highlight the environmental cost of staying fashionable.[3].And the UN Conference on Trade and Development rates the fashion industry as the second most polluting industry in the world. Even the World Bank is saying the industry needs to reinvent itself into a more sustainable industry - while recognizing that the industry employs 75 million people and is the third largest manufacturing sector after automobile and technology industries.[4]
Environmental impact of the fashion industry[5]
2,000 gallons of water needed to make one pair of jeans (from cotton field to store)
93 billion cubic metres of water, enough for 5 million people to survive, is used by the fashion industry every year
Fashion industry produces 20 per cent of global wastewater (toxic dyes, lead, mercury, microfibres)
Clothing and footwear production is responsible for 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions
Every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned
But what can we do? From several sources, a summary of suggestions:
· Choose organic fibres, natural fibres where possible or semi-synthetic blends
· Before buying, ask if the manufacturers used sustainable criteria to make the clothing
· Be creative in combining garments and recycle them after they wear out
· Repair clothing (or find a good seamstress!)
· Donate what you no longer use
· Buy only what you need. In some countries, 40% of purchased clothing is never used.
· Consider quality over quantity. Every additional year a garment is worn means less pollution
· Buy second hand clothing.
· Wash wise - full loads, eco - detergents and low water temperature.
· Plant a tree - rayon is made from wood pulp. Polyester & nylon are oil sourced
There are hopeful emerging trends such as separate collections for end-of-life textiles in some EU communities with Germany the most committed, recycling up to 75% of textiles. Clothing can be made from recycled polyester, nylon, plastic bottles, and even fishing nets at reduced environmental impact. But sustainable cotton, bamboo, and wool are best. Most of these are not produced sustainably now, but still the best choice.
And there are encouraging signs from younger entrepreneurs such as Kaya Dorey of Vancouver B.C. who has won the Young Champions of Earth award, the UN’s highest honour in recognition of her efforts to create a clothing production model that respects the earth. See the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-rpmq6XVrU&feature=youtu.be
Closing thoughts to reflect on:
~ The most environmentally sustainable jacket is the one that’s already in your closet (Lisa Williams)
~ Maxim 9 [6] - Avoid like the plague the compulsions of the unaware self.
I ask to become more conscious of how I use Earth’s resources?
Footnotes
[1] What’s Wrong with the Fashion Industry https://www.sustainyourstyle.org/en/whats-wrong-with-the-fashion-industry, Accessed August 15, 2020.
[2]“A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future”, Ellen MacArthur Foundation. https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/A-New-Textiles-Economy_Full-Report_Updated_1-12-17.pdf. Accessed August 15, 2020.
[3]. UN Launches Drive to Highlight Environmental Cost of Staying Fashionable,” UN News, March 25, 2019. https://news.un.org/en/story/2019/03/1035161. Accessed August 16, 2020.
[4] ‘How Much Do Our Wardrobes Cost to the Environment? ”Feature Story: Who We Are, World Bank September 23, 2019. https://www.worldbank.org/en/news/feature/2019/09/23/costo-moda-medio-ambiente#:~:text=The%20fashion%20industry%20is%20responsible,more%20than%2050%20%25%20by%202030. Accessed August 16, 2020.
[5] UN “Launches Drive.”
[6] SSJ Philadelphia Ecological Maxims
